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Steve Edmunds’ reds aren’t the only wines he makes that are remarkably “Euro” in personality. Give them a few years in the cellar and some of his whites take on characteristics that might allow them to pass for white Rhones in a blind tasting. The two selections noted here, opened for us by Allan Bree over the past few nights, are perfect examples.

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2002 Edmunds St. John Blonk! Paso Robles White Wine, 44% Roussanne, 37% Viognier, 19% Marsanne, 14.1% alc.: Rich, golden color, and mostly stony mineral on the nose; flavors echo, gaining some nice white tree fruit and lanolin on the palate. Full bodied, with ample acidity, and not having tasted this before, my impression is that it’s in a prime drinking window and not at all past its prime. Find this wine

2003 Edmunds St. John Paso Robles Viognier Rozet Vineyard, 13.9% alc.: Clean, medium color, with a shy nose that only hints at the mossy river stone and white tree fruit flavors; as it opens, a hint of honeysuckle emerges. Medium-full bodied, with good acidity, this, like the “Blonk!” is in a very good drinking place right now. Find this wine

Reporting from Sonapanoma,

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