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Domaine Devillard Happy Hour

Recently, we had the pleasure of attending an intimate “Happy Hour” tasting of red and white Burgundies, courtesy of our friends at AHD Vintners. The tasting took place in a side room at Michael Symon’s Roast restaurant, in the Westin Book Cadillac Detroit. The wines featured were from the portfolio of Domaine Devillard, which owns and operates, among others, Château De Chamirey and Domaine des Perdrix. At one time, these two estates were imported by Frederick Wildman and Sons, but when the Devillards sold their interests in two other Burgundy producers, Domaine Jacques Prieur and Antonin Rodet, they parted ways with Wildman. The folks at AHD are thrilled to now have these wines in their book, and when Cédric Ducoté of Domaine Devillard (shown on the left in the picture below, along with AHD’s Michelle DeHayes and head honcho Anthony “Chip” Delsener) came to town to promote them, it proved to be an irresistible opportunity to try some wines that haven’t been in the state since about 2009, except for older vintages. (Click on images to enlarge.)

We tasted through seven wines, which ranged from very good to excellent. Burgundy may not be one of my strengths, but I certainly know fine wines when I taste them, I know what I like and these are all quite enjoyable. Here are my snapshot impressions. Prices listed are based on standard markups on the wholesale pricing in this market.

2011 Devillard Château De Chamirey Mercurey Blanc, $33.99: Clean medium straw color; chalky minerality and a certain saline quality set the tone here for the straightforward chardonnay character. Balanced, with ample acids and good length; I have a feeling that we’re going to get to know this one much better. Find this wine

2011 A&A DeVillard Bourgogne Le Renard, $22.99: Clean ruby garnet color; pretty, if somewhat reticent cherry and strawberry aromas don’t exactly lead one to expect the tart cherry flavors shaded with underlying minerality. Medium bodied and more, and nicely balanced. Find this wine

2011 Devillard Domaine des Perdrix Bourgogne, $34.99: Clean ruby garnet color; straightforward, no-frills Pinot Noir, with the fruit speaking for itself and nicely so. Balanced, medium bodied and ready to drink and enjoy. Find this wine

2011 Devillard Château De Chamirey Mercurey Rouge, $33.99: Rich ruby garnet color, with a pretty, perfumed nose and equally pretty mineral-laced black cherry flavors; very good intensity and structured for several years of development. Find this wine

2010 Devillard Château De Chamirey Mercurey Clos du Roi, $46.99: Clean ruby garnet color; even more perfumed than the preceding wine, with rich, mineral-driven flavors graced with a judicious kiss of oak. Medium bodied and more, well-balanced, and while it’s entering its prime drinking window, it has the structure to develop and improve for some years yet. Find this wine

2010 Domaine des Perdrix Nuits St. Georges Aux Perdrix, $92.99: Rich ruby garnet color, with a spicy nose that reminds me of Constant Comment tea; rich and intense, with earthy, smoky black cherry flavors shaded with underlying minerality and a kiss of oak. A bite of the “Roast Burger” (accented with bacon, cheddar, fried egg and pickled onion) really pairs well with this one. Find this wine

2010 Devillard Domaine des Perdrix Echézeaux Grand Cru, $202.99: Clean ruby garnet color; medium bodied, well-balanced and deceptively well-structured. If it’s less stylish than the Aux Perdrix, it’s a deeper wine, and very primary at this stage. Give this one some time in the cellar to develop. Find this wine

Reporting from Day-twah,

geo t.

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