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Jean Foillard’s Morgon Côtes du Py was the first Beaujolais to demonstrate to me that the appellation was capable of producing truly great wine. I had heard rumors and read reports to that effect for some time, but experiencing the proof was another matter entirely. A lineup of 2000s from P. Ferraud & Fils tasted back in ’03 was pleasant enough, but didn’t really wow me, and a similar grouping from Georges Duboeuf the following year was so lackluster that it didn’t even merit a report, as even the Cru bottlings had that bubble gum and banana character that just turns me off to so many wines from the region. It wasn’t until our friend and colleague, Putnam Weekley, turned us on to the 2001 Foillard Morgon Cotes du Py that we tasted just how good these wines could be when they weren’t mucked up with 71B yeast . From there, we went on to discover other delights from the likes of Guy Breton, J-P Thevenet, Marcel Lapierre and J.P. Brun, but it is the Foillard that remains dearest to my heart, as successive vintages have been consistently outstanding.

I finally got around to picking up one of the current models a few weeks ago, and opened it a few nights ago with Kim, and as is always the case, it is all about pure pleasure, with an almost Pinot Noir-like personality and great promise for even better things down the road.

2008 Jean Foillard Morgon Côtes du Py, 13% alc., $29.99: Smoky ruby garnet color; a bit of the barnyard over a lovely, almost exotic perfume reminiscent of the 2005 Guy Breton Morgon Vieilles Vignes, earthy and floral at the same time, with somewhat smoky cherry and strawberry at the heart of it all. Flavors echo very nicely, fairly ripe, but not internationally styled, and the earthy quality plays off nicely against the rich fruit. Medium full bodied, with deceptive structure that should allow this to age several years in the cellar (a 2001 tasted recently still hadn’t reached its peak), and yet it’s already quite tasty. Another beauty from Jean Foillard, and the perfect rebuttal to the naysayers who claim that Gamay Noir is incapable of making great wine. Find this wine

Reporting from Day-twah,

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