There are rosés and then there are rosés. Most often what you get are light-to-medium weight quaffers that are pleasant and food-friendly in an easygoing, uncomplicated manner; these can range from bone dry to New World fruit forward. Sometimes, you get a more serious (and expensive) specimen, such as the wonderful Domaine Tempier Bandol Rosé.

And then, there are a few that walk, talk and drink like a red wine, and that’s what this one is all about. I’m not at all sure that we’ve had anything from this producer before. Jarred Gild put it in my hands while I was perusing the wine shelves at Ferndale’s Western Market a few days ago, telling me “It’s one of the best rosés made in the Loire Valley.” It certainly is a very good one, no doubt about it. (Click image to enlarge.)

2017 Jean-Maurice Raffault Chinon Rosé, 100% Cabernet Franc, 12.5% alc., $11.99: Clean, not-too-pale salmon in color, with a rich, expressive nose that leads into even richer and more outgoing flavors, all earthy, mineral-driven cherry in character. No lightweight this, it has size, weight and depth, and even shows some tannins to go along with the active acids. Being more hefty than most, it’ll stand up to a variety of grilled meats, ranging from turkey to pork, lamb and beef. I daresay, it’ll also pair well with a slab o’ salmon. My kind of rosé, and very fairly priced at $12. I’m going back for a case as soon as I finish posting this. Find this wine

Imported by Elite Brands, Kalamazoo, MI

Reporting from Day-twah,

Bastardo

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