Florida Jim Cowan’s Tasting Notes

All notes, except as otherwise noted, were from bottles that were opened and drunk with a meal over an extended period.  The 2009 archive is divided into the following categories:  Bubbles, Red, White and Rosé – Florida Jim Cowan
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BUBBLES

N/V Marquis de Monestral, Cava Brut Riserva Especiale:
Enduring bead, dry, clean, lemon-grass flavored, perfectly correct Cava without flaw or artifice. $9. Failure to at least try this wine is plain silly. I keep a case on hand. (Aside: a friend who has substantial experience with bubbly thought it an N/V grower Champagne when tasted blind.) Find this wine

NV Segura Viudas, Cava Brut Reserva:
Very much like the preceding wine but ever so slightly sweeter. Good for about $7. Find this wine

N/V Roederer Estate, Brut Anderson Valley:
A pretty wine with a good bead and a dry delivery; some flavor and quite fresh. About $15. Find this wine

N/V Gruet, Sparkling Wine Rosé:
A bubbly with character; good bead, refreshing overall profile with lots of flavor and nuance. I’d be happy with this anytime. 100% pinot noir, 12% abv and about $15. Find this wine

N/V Gosset, Champagne Excellence Brut:
Lightly yeasty, somewhat nutty, quite dry and altogether nice – I am not a Champagne guy but this was pleasant without rough spots and held its bead very well. $30. Find this wine

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ROSÉ

2008 Domaine Guy Mousset, Côtes-du-Rhône Rosé:
Bright red fruit aromas with some mineral; crisp and clean in the mouth with good fruit, complexity and intensity, bone dry and fairly long. 13% alcohol and about $10 – and more than worth a try. Find this wine

2007 François Cotat, Sancerre Rosé Chavignol:
Very concentrated watermelon and mineral nose; broad on the palate with flavors that follow the nose, some RS, solid structure and immense length. I am no fan of rosé that is even remotely sweet but this could make me a believer. For me, this is wine to serve very cold or to hold medium term. Superb with vegetable/chicken red curry. $40 – tough to justify at that price. Find this wine

2008 Bedrock, Rosé Ode to Lulu:
Mourvèdre based wine with a lovely fragrance, a dry, mineral driven palate, and a dry finish. In the Bandol style and quite nice with summer grilled veggies. Find this wine

2007 Henry Fessy, Côtes de Provence Rosé Cuvée Farigoul:
Melon and mineral nose; lightweight, bone dry with flavors that follow the nose, bright acidity but a bit short. 12.5% alcohol, refreshing and charming for $8. Find this wine

2007 Dom. Ott, Chat. De Selle Rosé:
Bone dry, ripe but perfectly balanced with strong flavors, good depth and a precision that is rare in pink wines. Charming with lobster salad. Find this wine

2006 Fortitude, Rosé:
From Napa, made of valdiguié (sometimes called Napa Gamay) and about 12.8% alcohol; not pale; very dry with earthy strawberry flavors and a distinctly bitter note (especially on the finish) that is not altogether pleasant. Its $9 so I don’t feel bad for trying it but I don’t think I’ll be back for more. Find this wine

2007 Alta Vista, Rosé:
From Argentina, a rosé of malbec, 13.5%, $7 and the label indicates it was not made from saignée. Not pale; very shy nose of strawberry and stone; some strawberry and pomegranate flavors, a touch of resin and salt, some viscosity and a diffuse finish. Reticent to a fault but nothing flawed or objectionable. Find this wine

2007 Mas Carlot, Rosé:
55% grenache, 40% syrah and 5% mourvèdre, all from saignée, $9 and 13.5% alcohol; not pale; raspberry Kool-Aid® and spice nose; almost rich on the palate with solid raspberry/strawberry flavors, some depth, maybe a touch of RS, and a pretty strong finish. Certainly more generous then the foregoing wine but not necessarily better. Find this wine

2007 Dom. Fontanyles, Rosé Côtes de Provence:
Quite pale and fairly dry; light strawberry and stone aromas and flavors, crisp and clean, some layering. Comes in a Dom. Ott look-a-like bottle, caries 13% alcohol and is about $12. Pleasant. Find this wine

2007 Le Pont, Rosé Bandol:
Twice the quality of the preceding bottle; every bit as pale (sort of a watery light copper) but the nose is stony and spicy with just a bit of fruit; lots of ripe fruit in the mouth but none of it sweet, spicy, a beautiful silky texture, great acidity that is fully integrated and a very long, tangy finish. Showing a sense of place, good finesse and flesh, and, so complex that the $18 price tag makes sense. 13% alcohol and a terrific, dry rosé. Don’t drink it too cold; this one is worth having at cellar temp. or even warmer. Find this wine

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